Homeownership comes with its fair share of maintenance challenges. We put this list together based on your most frequently asked home maintenance questions, then found the right experts to answer them. Whether you’re dealing with drywall issues, moisture concerns, or structural problems, we’ve got you covered with practical solutions and professional insights.
1. How Do You Fix Drywall Nail Pops?
Pops occur when lumber shrinks and exposes the shank of a nail or screw, according to Myron Ferguson, professional drywall contractor. Pressure on the loose drywall panel causes the head of the fastener to pop through.
To repair, drive a drywall screw about 1 1/2 inches above or below the pop on the same stud. Press the panel firmly against the framing as you set the screw. Next, remove or reset the popped fastener. If the surface is damaged, Ferguson recommends mesh tape to strengthen and conceal the repair. “Compared with paper tape, mesh trowels out thinner.”
Improper fastener length can also contribute to the problem. When installing drywall, make sure the screws penetrate the stud by at least 5/8 of an inch. Nails should penetrate the stud by at least 7/8 of an inch. Don’t set the fastener too deep, since tearing the paper surface also reduces the holding power of the fastener. “Do it right the first time,” urges Ferguson. “Use a screw gun and wallboard adhesive. Applying adhesive reduces the number of fasteners needed.”
2. How Should Asbestos Siding Be Safely Handled?
Asbestos was commonly used in many construction materials in homes built before the 1970s. “Many contractors have misled homeowners by claiming that all asbestos-containing materials in homes must be removed,” says Ken Giles, spokesman for the Consumer Product Safety Commission. This may be true for loose or damaged materials, but the best way to handle asbestos siding is to leave it alone. Shingles contain nonfriable asbestos, which means that the fibers won’t escape into the air unless they’re sawed, drilled, cut, or broken.
Encapsulating or covering the siding is usually sufficient to reduce this danger. To encapsulate, paint the siding with a latex masonry primer and high-quality latex paint. But don’t sand or scrape the material. To prepare the siding, just scrub with a soap-and-water solution, then rinse with a hose. To cover asbestos siding, install insulation board and vinyl siding over the shingles. Make sure screws penetrate at least 3/4 of an inch into the wall studs.
Removal is the most expensive solution and should be the last resort unless it’s required by state or local regulations, or if you’re considering a major exterior renovation, such as a large addition. Asbestos removal must be done by a certified remediation contractor (search your state’s asbestos contacts for a list of contractors). Improper removal is illegal and increases health risks to you and your family.
3. How Can You Effectively Clean Mildew From Exterior Paint?
Before you start to scrub, John Stauffer, former technical director of the Paint Quality Institute in Spring House, Pennsylvania, says you should make sure you’re dealing with mildew and not just dirt: Place a few drops of bleach on a suspected stain, wait a few minutes, and then rinse. If the treated area loses its color, it’s mildew (bleach does not affect dirt).
“Mildew can be eliminated by treating the surface with a mixture of one part bleach to three parts water,” Stauffer says. “Leave the mixture on the surface for about 20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.” As always, wear adequate hand and eye protection.
While it’s impossible to keep your exterior walls completely free of mildew, here are things you can do to minimize it:
- When repainting, clean the surface and paint only when it’s completely dry.
- Don’t paint on a windy day if nearby surfaces are mildewed, because the spores can blow over and infect the fresh paint.
- Many high-quality paints on the market contain a mildewcide, but you can also buy an additive to help paint resist mildew.
- Use latex paint, which resists mildew better than oil-based paint because it contains fewer nutrients for the mildew to feed upon.
- Glossier paints are less porous, so dirt and mold spores have less to grab hold of.
- Darker colors dry faster than lighter colors after it rains, so they are less receptive to mildew.
4. How Can You Identify Truss Uplift?
Truss uplift, or truss arching, is caused by wood reacting to changes in humidity, according to Rachel Smith, former technical director of the Wood Truss Council of America in Madison, Wisconsin.
The problem usually shows up in winter, when the bottom chords (the ceiling joist part of the truss), which are buried under ceiling insulation, stay warm and dry. Top chords, on the other hand, are exposed to moister attic air. As a result of the different moisture levels, the top chords expand and the bottom chords contract, which causes the bottoms of the trusses to bow, or lift, off of the wall. To confirm that this is the problem, use a handheld moisture meter on the top and bottom chords.
Also ask a contractor to look for any settlement of bearing walls, headers, beams, or floor members. In fact, truss arching is the cause of only about 20% of reported cases of partition separation, according to Smith. If the problem is moisture-related, installing attic ventilation can help correct the problem. Eave vents in combination with ridge vents are most effective.
5. How Do You Remove a Popcorn Ceiling?
Whether you hate the look or have dirt and stains on your popcorn ceiling, your best option is to remove the old texture and start from scratch. “Sprayed acoustic ceilings are notorious dirt and dust collectors,” says Kevin Bush, a drywall contractor in Boyertown, Pennsylvania, “and patching water stains and cracks is almost impossible.”
Although only a small percentage of sprayed acoustic ceilings contain asbestos fibers, have a small sample tested before starting work. If the lab gives the all-clear, use a ceiling-texture scraper to remove the old finish. This tool consists of a handle, blade, and plastic bag. As you scrape, the bag catches most of the debris, making cleanup easier.
You won’t get a smooth ceiling after you remove the acoustic. Most contractors apply only two coats of joint compound to drywall joints when the ceiling will be covered with a popcorn finish. For a smooth finish, you’ll need to sand and apply a third coat. Then paint with a drywall primer followed by a flat ceiling paint. It hides imperfections better than glossier paints.
If you want to apply a new texture, the simplest is a knockdown finish. Thin down some joint compound with water and roll it on the ceiling with a medium-nap paint roller. When the compound is almost dry, run a wide trowel over the surface to knock down the peaks. The semi-smooth surface can be painted with a glossier paint without drawing attention to imperfections.
6. How Do You Safely Handle Water in Basements and Crawl Spaces?
A number of circumstances can cause a wet basement or crawl space. First, it’s important that gutters are clean and downspouts divert water away from the house, according to Mark Kuzila, director of the Conservation and Survey Division at the University of Nebraska. If water from a downspout is puddling around the foundation, divert the water by extending the downspout at least 10 feet from the house.
Surface drainage is also important. Watch how the water puddles the next time it rains. Fill any low spots that puddle within 10 feet of the foundation. For best drainage, the land surrounding your house should slope away from the foundation at a rate of 1 inch per foot, including the driveway, sidewalk, and patio.
Problems with subsurface water are generally more serious and will require professional help. The least intrusive solution is to install a sump pump, but when subsurface water is putting hydrostatic pressure on basement walls, you might also need to install a subsurface drainage system. This involves excavating around the foundation and installing 4-inch drainage pipe covered with gravel. In severe cases, you may need to contact a soil engineer to investigate the depth and direction of the subsurface water.
7. How Do You Reinforce Sagging Floors?
Sagging or sloping floors could be the result of inadequate support beams that are deflecting or failing. Rotted sills or an inadequate foundation are other causes. In addition to affecting the floor, these conditions can cause wall cracks and make doors and windows impossible to open.
According to Dr. Sarah Kirby, housing specialist at the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service in Raleigh, sagging upper floors and those caused by insect or water damage should be looked at by a contractor. You can sometimes correct minor sags on the first floor yourself with a pair of screw-type jack posts and a wood or steel beam to bridge the jacks, but this is difficult and somewhat risky. The posts need a very firm foundation.
Even if you have a 4-inch concrete slab, you still need to create a concrete pier pad for the jack that’s 18–24 square inches and at least 12 inches deep. Once these pier pads have cured and the jacks are in place, begin by raising the floor slowly, as little as a quarter turn per week. Jacking slowly allows for settling without serious disruptions or sudden stress.
However, be aware that lifting might create additional wall cracks and change door and window margins. To protect your investment in your home, we recommend hiring a professional contractor for foundation problems.
8. Drying Sweaty Windows
“Condensation has been a persistent and often misunderstood problem associated with windows,” says Dariush Arasteh, staff scientist at the Environmental Energy Technologies Division of Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory. In cold climates, condensation collects on windows when the temperature of the glass drops below the dew point of the inside air.
Minor sweating is normal with most windows, but excessive condensation can contribute to mold or mildew in or on the walls, damaged paint surfaces, and rotted wood components, says Arasteh. In an existing home with older windows, the simplest and most effective way to control condensation is by reducing interior humidity. Using vent fans (in the kitchen and bathrooms) and dehumidifiers also helps lower interior humidity levels.
Newer low-emissivity, double-glazed windows reduce frost and condensation because interior glass surface temperatures are warmer. The National Fenestration Rating Council, an organization that tests the energy efficiency of windows, has a condensation resistance rating system. Currently, this rating is optional for manufacturers to include on a new window’s NFRC label. In the absence of a condensation rating, a lower U-value generally indicates greater condensation resistance.
9. How To Prevent Exterior Paint From Peeling
“The main cause of paint failure is inadequate prep work,” says Doug Hanhner, supervisor of the Benjamin Moore Paints Product Information Center in Flanders, New Jersey. Glossy surfaces must be sanded. Otherwise, your new paint will start coming off in sheets with the first major change in temperature.
Another common problem is moisture getting behind paint and working through the surface. After power washing your house, allow at least 14 days for the siding and sheathing to dry before painting. Occasionally, moisture seeping through walls, especially around the kitchen and bathrooms, can cause paint to peel. Painting too early in spring or too late in fall can also cause paint to fail prematurely. Even though it may feel dry to the touch in a day or two, latex paint needs to remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 14 days to cure properly.
To deal with peeled paint, scrape down to a solid base (preferably bare wood), and apply an alkyd primer. Alkyds penetrate deeper and adhere better than latex primer. “Latex primers breathe better, but alkyds prevent moisture from getting trapped between the primer and base, which can also lead to paint failure,” explains Hanhner. Apply two topcoats to build up a sufficiently thick skin. When rolling or spraying, you should also back brush—that is, work the paint into crevices with a brush—to create a stronger mechanical bond with the surface.
10. How Can You Accurately Diagnose Rotted Wood?
“The most common signs of rot are stained or soft wood, the presence of black or yellow fungus, insects, or, in the case of painted wood, a soft depression under the surface of the paint,” says Mark Cramer, president of the American Society of Home Inspectors in Illinois.
To determine the extent of the damage, probe the area with an ice pick or screwdriver to check for soft or spongy wood. If the rot-damaged area exceeds 10%–15% percent of the beam, it usually requires a structural repair.
Using a pressure-treated replacement will prevent the problem from recurring, but in most cases, an epoxy patch is a faster, less expensive fix. Most repair kits contain a consolidant, which hardens any questionable wood, and a two-part epoxy. When properly mixed and used with the appropriate fillers, structural epoxies are stronger than the original wood.
When To Call a Professional
Perhaps the most important DIY skill is recognizing the difference between a project you can take on yourself and a situation that requires professional expertise. Knowing when to call in a pro can save you time, money, and potential safety hazards.
Recognizing Complex Repair Situations
We strongly recommend hiring a licensed professional to deal with the following issues:
- Electrical or plumbing problems
- Structural problems affecting load-bearing walls or foundations
- Extensive water damage or mold growth
- Asbestos or lead paint removal
- Major roof repairs or replacements
In some cases, failing to hire a licensed contractor could violate local codes, void warranties, and compromise the value of your home. In cases of mold, asbestos, and lead paint, it could also endanger your health.
Finding Qualified Contractors
Of course, finding a trusted contractor is often a challenge. To find reputable professionals:
- Ask for recommendations from friends, family, or neighbors.
- Check with local trade associations or the Better Business Bureau.
- Look at online reviews on popular customer review sites.
- Verify licenses, insurance, and references.
- Get multiple written estimates before choosing a contractor.
- Never pay the full amount upfront—establish a payment schedule tied to completed work.
When in doubt, don’t hesitate to consult with a qualified contractor to ensure the safety and integrity of your home.