How To Build a Chalkboard Message Center

A chalkboard message center is a practical and fun decor choice for any home, offering a central spot for family notes, reminders, and creative expression. This DIY project combines the charm of a traditional chalkboard with the classic look of Colonial Revival-style trim. Here, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva and host Kevin O’Connor walk through how to construct a large message center that looks good while being useful.

*Unless otherwise noted, costs in this article reflect an average of prices that our team found from hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot, and on Amazon.com.

Chalkboard Message Center Materials and Tools

Below is a list of materials you’ll need to get started on your project. Don’t forget to wear your safety gear, such as goggles, gloves, and protective footwear, and pay close attention when working with power tools. 

• 1×3 and 1×4 poplar boards
• 3-inch deck screws
• 18-gauge brad nails
• Brad nailer
• Chalkboard panel
• Circular saw
• Colonial-style trim
• Crown molding
• Drill/driver with countersink bit
• MDF sheet (1/2-inch thick)
• Miter saw
• Pencil and tape measure
• Router with 3/8-inch roundover bit
• Wood glue
• 1 5/8-inch screws

Step-By-Step Instructions for Building a Chalkboard Message Center

Below, we’ll go over each step to create your own 21 1/2-by-31 1/4-inch message center.

Step 1: Get the Overview

Refer to the image above as a guide to see how all of your pieces will fit together.

Step 2: Cut Pieces to Length

Using a miter saw, trim the parts for the inner and outer frames to the lengths specified on the tools and materials list above.

Step 3: Assemble Inner Frame

Align the end of the 1×3 top piece flush with the face of a 1×3 side piece, then use a No. 8 countersink and bit set to drill two pilot holes. Drive 3-inch deck screws into the holes. Repeat on the top piece’s opposite end.

Tip: Drill two holes at once. Pilot holes are a must when driving screws into thin stock, but drilling lots of them can get tedious. Stack two boards on top of each other and drill two pilot holes in one go, as shown. When you’re done with the top board, countersink the holes in the bottom one.

Step 4: Attach the Side Casing

Miter one end of a side casing, so its short point falls 1/2 inch shy of the frame’s top. Glue the casing to the frame leg so the square ends sit flush with each other and a 1⁄4-inch reveal separates the edges of the frame and casing. Fasten them with brads.

Step 5: Finish the Casing

Repeat Step 4 and attach the remaining side casing to the frame’s opposite leg. Cut miters in both ends of the top casing, and glue and nail those ends flush to the miters at the top of the side casings. Take a damp rag and wipe away any glue that squeezes out of the joints.

Mitering tip: To find where to cut the miters in the top casing, place it upside down on the side casings. Mark where the points of the sides touch the top, then cut the miters at those marks.

Step 6: Assemble Outer Frame

Align the end of a 1×4 side piece flush with the face of the 1×4 top piece. Drill two pilot holes and drive deck screws into the holes. Repeat with the second side piece. The legs of this frame are 3 1/2 inches longer than the legs of the 1×3, to support the crown molding that’s added in Step 12.

Step 7: Put the Frames Together

Run a bead of glue on the legs of the 1×4 frame, and then lay the casing and 1×3 frame assembly on it. Align the ends of the casings flush with the ends of the outer frame’s legs and with those legs’ outside edges. Fasten the casing to the outer frame with brads.

Step 8: Make a Backer for the Crown

Cut a length of 1×4 to match the width of the outer frame. Glue and nail a 6-inch-long scrap of 1×4 to the face of the backer so that about an inch of scrap projects past the backer’s edge. This projecting portion acts as a cleat to support the backer’s bottom edge.

Step 9: Attach the Backer

Run a bead of glue on the exposed part of the 1×4 frame, on the cleat, and along the backer’s bottom edge. Slip the cleat under the top casing, butt the backer’s glue-covered edge against the casing, and fasten the piece in place with brads.

Step 10: Mark the Crown

Hold a length of crown molding against the backer, so the molding projects at least 4 inches past both sides. Mark the bottom edge of the crown where it touches one end of the backer piece. Without moving the crown, mark where it touches the other end of the backer.

Step 11: Miter the Crown

Place the crown upside down on the miter-saw table so it rests at an angle against the saw’s fence with the marks at the top. Make a 45-degree miter cut at the mark on the left. Swing the saw blade and make a 45-degree miter cut at the right-hand mark.

Step 12: Cut the Returns and Finish the Crown

Stand a length of crown upright on its square-cut end next to the frame. Mark the bottom edge where it touches the corner of the backer. To make the returns, set the crown upside down on the miter saw, and cut a 45-degree outside miter at the mark. Repeat the marking process on the other side of the frame, swing the saw blade, and cut an outside miter in the second return.

Glue and nail the bottom edge of the long piece of crown to the backer, then glue on the returns. Line up the profiles of the two pieces and secure the returns with brads.

Step 13: Prep the Stool

Cut a 1×6 so it’s 2 1/2 inches longer than the distance between the legs of the outer frame. Run a router with a 3⁄8-inch roundover bit over all the sharp edges on the front and ends of the stool. Now center it on the frame and mark a line where the legs of the inner and outer frames are located.

Step 14: Attach the Stool

Drill two pilot holes at each line marked in Step 13. With the stool placed unrouted side down, line up the holes with their respective frame ends, then drill through the bottom of the stool at every pilot-hole location. Drive a 3-inch screw into each of the pilot holes.

Step 15: Make the Apron

Using 1×4 stock, cut outside miters on each end of the apron front the same length as the outer frame. Glue and nail 4 1⁄4-inch-long mitered returns to the front’s ends, and put a 3 1/2-inch support piece in its center. Glue and toe-screw the assembly to the stool using 1 5⁄8-inch screws.

Step 16: Install the Chalkboard and Attach the MDF Backing

Place the assembled trim facedown and measure the outside dimensions of the inner frame. Using a circular saw with a guide, cut the chalkboard to those dimensions. Tack the board to the frame with brads.

The backing supports the chalkboard and keeps the trim assembly square. Measure the inside dimensions of the outer frame and cut the MDF sheet to match, using the circular saw and guide. Draw four lines on the sheet corresponding to the centerlines of the inner frame. Lay the sheet in place, drill pilot holes with the countersink bit, and screw the sheet to the inner frame. Fill the holes left by the brads with putty, prime and paint the wood, then hang the piece on the wall using the method of your choice.

Step 17: Hang Your Message Center

This message center will weigh about 25 pounds, so make sure it is level and securely hung. Here are a few ways to do that:

• French cleat: Attach one part to the back of the message center and the other to wall studs for a secure hold.
• Heavy-duty picture hangers: Use multiple hangers rated for the weight of your finished piece.
• Keyhole slots: For a flush mount, cut keyhole slots in the MDF backing and hang on screws driven into wall studs.

Creative Chalkboard Upgrades for Style and Utility

We’ve come up with a few creative ways to personalize your new message center and make it a multifunctional masterpiece: 

• Shelving space: Build shelves into the frame to hold chalk, markers, or other small items.
• Hooks: Use hooks to hang your keys, umbrellas, or small bags, organize your dog’s leases, or display decorative items. Make sure your message center is firmly installed so it can handle the weight of the items.
• Reminders and organization: Post your weekly menu, family schedule, and activities calendar to keep everyone up-to-date and informed. You can also include interactive elements like stickers, magnets, or corkboard sections for added communication space.
• Paint and stain: Experiment with bold paint colors or stain and seal the wood surface for a more natural look. 

Chalkboard Message Center Maintenance and Use

Take care of your chalkboard message center regularly to keep it looking its best and in working condition:

• Clean the chalkboard surface with a slightly damp cloth.
• Avoid using harsh chemicals that could damage the chalkboard finish.
• Tighten any screws or hardware to maintain stability as needed.

Tools You’ll Need