A malfunctioning toilet can be a major inconvenience in any household. “The toilet is the most used plumbing fixture in the home, and sometimes, it can just wear out,” says This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey.
Rebuilding your toilet’s tank yourself can save you money and solve a few common problems. The replacement parts are relatively inexpensive, you don’t need any plumbing experience to do the job, and all it takes is an hour or two of your time.
Watch as Trethewey guides host Kevin O’Connor through detaching a toilet tank and replacing all the components at once.
Common Toilet Tank Problems
A few problems you may encounter with your toilet tank include these:
- Constant running: Toilets that keep running after you flush them waste water and cost you money. The culprit behind this problem is often a faulty flapper seal, a misadjusted or broken fill valve, or a chain that’s too short or tangled.
- Leaks: Leaks in a part of the toilet tank can lead to water damage. A few common leak sources include cracks in the tank, a faulty fill valve, loose or corroded bolts, or worn-out gaskets between the tank and the bowl.
- Weak flushing: If the water level in your toilet tank is low, you’ll get a weaker flush. A few other things that could cause weak flushes are an improperly adjusted chain length or clogs in the rim and siphon jets.
A toilet tank rebuild may sound a bit drastic, but it gives you a “reset” that can solve all of these very common issues.
Materials and Tools Needed To Rebuilt Your Toilet Tank
You can find universal toilet repair kits from your local home improvement store. They cost around $20 to $40 and include a new fill valve, flush valve, and flapper all in one box.
Aside from the kit, you’ll need these tools and materials:
- Adjustable wrench
- Bucket
- Large slotted screwdriver
- Pliers
- Plumber’s tape
- Replacement bolts and washers
- Sponges or rags
- Wet/dry vacuum (optional)
- Work gloves (optional but recommended)
Steps To Rebuild a Toilet Tank
Follow these steps to successfully rebuild your toilet tank. Work carefully to avoid damaging the porcelain.
Removing the Tank
It’s often easier to replace the components of your toilet tank when you don’t have to lean over or walk around the bowl, so Trethewey detaches the tank and replaces it once the new components are in place.
First, find the shut-off valve behind your toilet. Typically, it’s attached to a metal pipe coming from below the tank. Turn it clockwise to stop the water flow, and hold down the flush lever to drain the tank as much as you can. Then, clean up residual water left in the bottom of the tank. Trethewey uses a turkey baster, but you can use a sponge, rag, or wet/dry vacuum for the job.
Next, you’ll disconnect the water supply line. Unscrew the nut that connects the line to the fill valve. Place a bucket underneath to catch any residual water.
Once everything’s drained and disconnected, loosen and remove the brass nuts that secure the tank off the bowl. Lift the tank off carefully so you don’t damage the porcelain, and place it on a towel for protection.
Removing the Old Components
Now, it’s time to remove all of the old components. Lay the tank on its side and use a pair of pliers to remove the large spud nut from underneath the flush valve. Then, loosen and remove the fill valve with your pliers and push the three bolts around the flush valve through and out of the holes.
This is a good time to clean the inside of the tank thoroughly to remove any buildup or debris. A clean tank can sometimes improve the fit and function of the new components.
Installing the New Fill Valve
Tip up the tank and place the new fill valve in the original hole. The washer and nut included in the repair kit secure it in place.
This valve has an adjusting screw that helps you control the height of the tank. You’ll tweak the water level setting later once the tank is back on the toilet.
Installing the New Flush Valve
Then, insert the new flush valve into the larger central hole at the bottom of the tank. This valve secures with a larger nut. A spud gasket goes over the nut to make a watertight seal between the tank and the bowl.
While you’re in this step, replace the brass bolts around the flush valve. Secure the bolts from the underside with a brass washer, then a nut.
Attaching the New Flapper
Connect the new flapper to the flush valve. To close the flush valve effectively, the flapper has to be able to drop straight down. Choose a chain length that allows for proper sealing while keeping full flushes, and gives the chain a slight slack when the flush lever is at rest. Clip that spot to the designated point at the inside of the flush lever.
Putting the Tank Back on the Bowl
Now, you can reinstall the toilet tank. Align the three new bolts you fastened with the holes on the bowl. Secure the bolts from the underside of the bowl with a rubber washer, then a brass washer, and finally, a wingnut. Tighten the nuts evenly to create a proper seal, and don’t overtighten, which could crack the porcelain.
Reconnecting and Testing
Reattach the water supply line to the fill valve. To prevent leaks, apply plumber’s tape to the threads on the fill valve. Then, reattach the water supply line.
Flip the water supply back on and allow the tank to fill. Check for leaks—if you find any, double-check the connections and tighten anything that’s loose. If the tank fills slowly, you may be dealing with deeper clogs or debris.
Make sure the tank’s water level is at the proper setting, about 1 inch below the overflow pipe. Most modern fill valves have a simple clip or screw mechanism you can use to fine-tune the water level.
Maintenance Tips for Your Newly Rebuilt Toilet Tank
To keep your newly rebuilt toilet tank functioning properly, clean the tank interior once yearly to prevent mineral buildup. Avoid using harsh chemical cleaners that can damage the components inside the tank.
When performing toilet maintenance, regularly inspect the seals and gaskets. Catching wear at its earliest signs will save you time and money fixing leaks.
The flapper tends to wear out a bit faster than the other components. You’ll need to replace it every few years, and regularly inspect and replace other parts as needed.
