How To Install a Herringbone Floor

Installing a herringbone floor elevates an ordinary room into one with elegance and character. While the process requires precision and patience, the payoff is well worth the effort for those willing to take on the challenge. In the video above, This Old House expert Charles Peterson demonstrates the intricate process of creating a herringbone inlay in an existing hardwood floor.

Understanding the Herringbone Pattern

The herringbone pattern consists of rectangular wood pieces laid at a 45-degree angle, creating a zigzag effect that resembles herring fish bones. This design creates an illusion of more space while also being visually striking, making it particularly effective in smaller rooms.

Challenges of Installation

While lovely, herringbone flooring is one of the more complex patterns to install. “This is the pattern that even the pros mess up,” says Peterson, author of Wood Flooring: A Complete Guide to Layout, Installation & Finishing. These are the main challenges:

• Precise cutting and alignment of each slat
• Maintaining consistent angles throughout the pattern
• Ensuring a seamless transition between the herringbone section and surrounding flooring

Preparing for Herringbone Floor Installation

Good preparation is key to successfully kickstarting your project.

Gathering Materials and Tools

To install a herringbone floor, you’ll need the following:

• 3/4-inch plywood for creating a nailing blank
• Chalk
• Flooring nailer
• Framing square and rafter square
• Miter saw and circular saw
• Prefinished hardwood flooring planks
• Router with a 1 1/4-inch flooring bit
• Rubber mallet
• Tape measure
• Trammel or compass
• Wood glue and flooring splines

Getting Started: Mark the Centerline

To start, snap a chalk line down the center of the room, along its length, then use a trammel to mark a perpendicular line. With the trammel’s point on one end of the centerline, draw a semicircle across it. From the other end, draw intersecting arcs, as shown. Use a straightedge to connect the points where the arcs intersect. Now, you can measure off of these perpendicular lines to create the rectangular field the herringbone will occupy.

Calculate Slat Length and Quantity

Herringbone slats must be cut to a length that is an exact multiple of their width. Take these steps to determine the appropriate length:

1. Lay out pieces at a 45-degree angle to the centerline.
2. Zigzag out to the side, overlapping pieces at 90 degrees.
3. Adjust until you find a length that fits within your field with full-length slats at each side.

For this project, we chose a 27-inch length to work with 3-inch-wide flooring.

Make a Test Panel

Once you have your slat length, measure and mark one strip, with the tongue end as waste, and cut it with a miter saw. Use a rubber mallet to dry-fit the number of strips that equal the length of the test slat—nine in our case. Butt the tongue of the test slat into the panel’s end groove to make sure the slat’s ends are perfectly flush with the panel’s edges, as shown. If they’re not, size another piece and test it again.

Cut the Slats

When you’re satisfied with the slat length, set up a stop block and cut the remaining slats, making sure to chop off the tongue ends.

Tip: Sweep out any sawdust at the stop block after every cut, otherwise, the buildup will throw off all your efforts to make slats of a precisely equal length.

Add Grooves to the Flat Ends

Herringbone slats need grooves in both ends to properly interlock. Use the groove of a slat to set the depth of the flooring router bit. Clamp one slat to a workbench and rout the cut end. Fit a tongue inside the new groove to check your work. If it’s OK, rout the rest of the slats.

Set the Working Distance

You’ll need to draw parallel working lines on either side of the centerline to align the corners of each slat as you place it. Use a rafter square to mark a 45-degree angle from one corner of a slat, as shown, for your first working line. To get the distance to the second working line, draw a line from the opposite corner to intersect the first line. Now make a line from the intersection of the T, perpendicular to the edge of the slat. From that point on the edge, draw a line parallel with the top of the T to represent the centerline.

Mark the Floor

Place the slat so that the last line you drew is over the centerline, as shown. Make a mark at each corner of the slat at several intervals along the centerline. Use a straightedge to connect the marks and form two working lines.

Install the Nailing Blank

Using a circular saw, cut the factory corner of a piece of 3/4-inch plywood into a right triangle with two sides matching the length of your slats. Mark the centerline of this blank and line it up on one of the working lines. Position the blank’s long edge on the top border of your field, and screw it to the subfloor. Route a groove along the blank’s two forward edges. The area occupied by the blank will be filled in with herringbone in a few steps.

Establish the Pattern

Align the first slat with the side of the blank covering the centerline, tongue facing out. Lay the second slat along the other side of the blank, overlapping the end of the first, as shown, with its corners aligned with the working lines and the tongue facing out.

Nail the Slats in Place

Position a flooring nailer against the tongue edge of the first slat. Strike the nailer with a mallet to drive nails every 5 inches along the slat. Check the alignment of the second slat, then nail it in place.

Finish the Course and Reverse the Blank

Install the third slat overlapping the end of the second slat, the fourth slat overlapping the end of third slat, and so on. Continue the pattern until the point of the chevron reaches the border. Unscrew the blank, reverse it, and place it against the tongue of the last slat laid, flush with its end. Screw it to the subfloor, as shown.

Begin the Second Course

Butt the next slat against the blank, tongue out. Check for a tight joint, and nail it in place. Continue until the chevron reaches the opposite border. Keep adding slats until their ends reach the side borders.

Backfill the Empty Triangles

You can’t nail into the groove of a slat, so you have to reverse the slats’ direction to cover the areas left by the blank. To do that, you need a flooring spline, which allows you to butt two grooves together. Run a bead of wood glue in the groove of an installed slat, as shown. Insert the spline and nail it down like you would any other slat. Now work off that “tongue,” adding slats until the border of your field is covered.

Mark the Overlap for Removal

Where the slats overlap the field’s borders, you’ll trim them to get a straight line. Use painter’s tape to mark a cutline, as shown. The tape will guard against splintering as you cut.

Cut Off the Excess

Screw a strip of molding or other material to a narrow length of plywood, place the fence of a circular saw against the strip, and rip the plywood to create a long-cutting guide for the saw. Line up the guide over the tape and, using spacers, screw it to the subfloor where it extends past the installed flooring. Set the circular saw on the guide, and adjust the depth of the blade to a hair more than the thickness of the slats. Trim the slats along the border, as shown. Do the same thing on the other three sides of the field.

Add Grooves to the Edges

Use the router to cut a groove around the perimeter so that you can add an apron of long flooring strips to frame the herringbone.

Attach a Feature Strip

Run a bead of wood glue in the groove along one side of the herringbone field, insert a long spline, and tap the spline in place. Repeat for the other three sides. Now, install a decorative accent piece to define the edge of the field. We used 1 1/4-inch walnut.

Nail the Border Pieces

For the next layer in the apron, measure and cut as you go to ensure a close fit. Use the nailer to install each strip so that it overlaps the end of the next, log-cabin style, in a frame around the field. Continue nailing border pieces until your apron is complete.

Herringbone Floor Finishing touches

Once the primary installation steps are complete, it’s time to focus on the final touches.

Sanding and Smoothing

If necessary, lightly sand the entire floor to remove any minor imperfections or surface irregularities. Use fine-grit sandpaper and work systematically across the floor. This step is particularly important if you used unfinished slats, as it will prepare the surface for staining and sealing.

Staining and Sealing the Floor

If the flooring planks are unfinished, apply a stain to achieve your desired wood tone. Use a high-quality brush or stain applicator to apply the stain evenly, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the stain has dried, seal the floor with a durable topcoat to protect against wear and enhance the wood’s natural beauty. For prefinished flooring, a sealer may not be necessary, but a final buffing can boost the shine and overall look.

Inspecting and Touching Up

Carefully inspect the entire floor for any missed spots or inconsistencies. Use wood filler to address gaps or imperfections, and gently sand these areas. Do a final inspection to check that every detail meets your standards.

Tips for Maintaining Your Herringbone Floor

Your new herringbone floor requires consistent upkeep to keep it beautiful and long-lasting. Here are some tips.

Regular Cleaning

Keep your floor free of dirt and debris by sweeping it regularly. Use a soft-bristle broom to avoid scratching the surface. Vacuuming with a hardwood floor attachment can also effectively remove dust and particles from between the slats.

Avoid Moisture Damage

Wood flooring is especially susceptible to moisture damage, which can cause warping or swelling. Place mats at entryways to reduce the amount of water tracked onto the floor. Wipe up spills immediately to stop moisture from seeping into the wood.

Protect the Surface

Place felt pads under furniture legs to prevent scratches when moving pieces across the floor. Use rugs in high-traffic areas to reduce wear and tear, and avoid wearing high-heeled shoes on the floor, as they can cause dents and scratches.

Benefits of Professional Installation for Herringbone Floor

While installing herringbone floor yourself can be rewarding, hiring a professional has its advantages.

Expertise and Precision

Professional installers have the experience and specialized tools to guarantee precise cuts and perfect alignment. They can handle the complexities of herringbone patterns and can deliver flawless results.

Time and Convenience

Installing a herringbone floor is time-consuming and requires extreme attention to detail. By hiring a pro, you can save time and avoid the frustration of troubleshooting potential issues.

Quality Assurance

Experts provide a level of quality assurance that’s hard to achieve with a DIY approach. Many offer warranties on their work, giving you peace of mind and protection against potential problems.

Our Conclusion

Installing a herringbone floor can transform a room. While it requires precision, patience, and specialized techniques, the result is a timeless and elegant flooring pattern. For an added touch of sophistication, consider installing a floor medallion; it should be carefully centered and aligned with the herringbone pattern to ensure a cohesive look. With careful planning and attention to detail, an experienced DIYer can achieve good results—but it may be helpful to have a professional on speed dial if you run into issues.