How To Restore a Lawn Full of Weeds (2024 Guide)

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Written by Brenda Woods Updated 12/19/2024

Brenda Woods

Brenda Woods is an accomplished writer and managing editor with more than two decades of publishing experience. She has spent over 10 years covering home services and home improvement projects. Brenda supports her team in evaluating dozens of home service providers, surveying and speaking to hom…

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The battle against weeds in your yard can be a frustrating one, especially if you feel like you’re losing. Often, if your lawn is all or mostly weeds, there’s an underlying problem that’s allowing nuisance plants to take over your turfgrass. You need to get rid of the weeds, of course, but you also need to improve the condition of your yard to get the lush, green lawn you want.

If you only have a few pesky weeds infesting your lawn, you may be able to dig them up by hand—paying careful attention to make sure you get their roots. But if your lawn is overrun with weeds, you’ll need to take a more comprehensive approach. In this guide, we’ll outline some steps for restoring a lawn full of weeds. If you need some help, we’ll also recommend our top professional lawn care company to help you keep your grass weed-free.

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Why Is Your Lawn Full of Weeds?

It’s a good idea to understand why weeds have overtaken your grass, so you can prevent it from happening again. “Most weeds that encroach into lawns can be an indication of some underlying problem. We sometimes refer to these weeds as indicator weeds. In some cases, these problems and the weeds that they cause can be addressed through how the lawn is managed,” says Jon Trappe, Ph.D., turfgrass extension educator at the University of Minnesota.

Here are some lawn conditions that can lead to weeds flourishing:

• Mowing too short: Weeds thrive in thinning grass. The best way to keep weeds out is to have thick, tall, dense grass all over your lawn. If your grass is cut too short, it’s more susceptible to a weed invasion. Setting your lawn mower to the highest setting can help with this.
• Not enough water: Weeds tend to have robust root systems and can easily compete with your grass for moisture. If you are not watering your grass enough, the weeds can absorb what water there is, taking it away from the grass.
• Poor drainage: On the other hand, if the water isn’t draining properly through the soil, roots can rot and fungus can grow. Some weeds thrive under wetter conditions.
• Compacted soil: If your soil becomes too compacted, whether from excessive foot traffic or poor soil composition, your grass’s roots won’t have access to the nutrients, water, or air they need. This stressed turf makes for an exceptional weed breeding ground.
• Poor soil nutrition: Your soil may lack the nutrients that turfgrass needs to grow. Additionally, most grass needs slightly acidic soil to survive, whereas many weeds can grow in a broader pH range.

“Mowing too short opens up the canopy for weeds to come up. Most weed seeds are light-sensitive, meaning that once they are exposed to direct sunlight, they get a cue that there’s not much competition and it’s a good time to come up,” says Albert Adjesiwor, Ph.D., assistant professor and extension specialist at the University of Idaho. He also warns, “If you let your dandelion go to seed before you mow the lawn, you will spread the seeds all over the lawn and have a problem on your hand.”

How To Restore a Lawn Full of Weeds in 10 Steps

Step 1: Identify the Weeds

In order to make a successful game plan, you’ll need to know just what kind of weeds you’re dealing with. Weed treatments are designed to target specific plant species, so what works on broadleaf weeds may leave grass-like weeds undisturbed.

Adjesiwor says, “Know the enemy! Not all weeds are created equal. Controlling grassy weeds in a grass lawn is very difficult. Perennial weeds like field bindweed and Canada thistle will produce roots that have several buds (growing points).”

First, do a simple visual inspection of the weeds to see which broad category they fall into.

Broadleaf:

• Appearance: Broad, flat leaves
• Common types: Clover, ground ivy, dandelions, chickweed

Grass-like:

• Appearance: Similar to grass, with hollow leaves in a triangular or tube shape
• Common types: Nutsedge, wild garlic, wild onion

Grassy:

• Appearance: Resembles grass, grows one leaf at a time
• Common types: Foxtail, annual bluegrass, quackgrass, crabgrass

Weeds can also be categorized based on their life cycle—annual, biennial, or perennial.

• Annual: Produces seeds during one season only
• Biennial: Produces seeds during two back-to-back seasons
• Perennial: Produces seeds over many seasons

Step 2: Select a Proper Herbicide

Next, it’s time to select the proper weed treatment based on both weed classification and the stage in their life cycle. Pre-emergent herbicides kill weeds before their seeds even have a chance to germinate. If your lawn is already full of weeds, you need a post-emergent herbicide.

At this point, you should also decide how much of your lawn is worth salvaging. If your lawn is truly all weeds and bare patches, you may consider a non-selective, broad spectrum herbicide to kill off everything. This is a drastic step, but if the weeds have completely overwhelmed the grass, or if you’d like to start over with a different type of turfgrass, starting from scratch may be your best bet.

“Homeowners should seek out local expertise for herbicide recommendations for weed control in lawns,” says Corey Ransom, Ph.D., associate professor at Utah State University. “This will ensure that the herbicides selected are effective for controlling the weeds that are most problematic for each specific situation.”

Step 3: Apply the Treatment

For this step, it’s crucial that you follow the directions on the herbicide packaging to the letter. Make sure you apply the proper product at the proper time. If you don’t, you could end up killing plants you don’t intend to destroy or harming local wildlife. It’s also a good idea to check out the forecast beforehand since you don’t want any storms to wash away the herbicide.

Step 4: Wait It Out

How soon you can plant seed depends on the type of weed treatment you choose. You’ll need to wait for the weeds and their root systems to fully die before proceeding. Additionally, pre-emergent herbicides will prevent both weed and grass seeds from growing, so it’s not a good idea to sow grass seeds immediately after treatment.

“Some herbicides have residual activity, meaning they can be active for an extended period of time, while others do not, and seeds can be planted immediately after application,” says Hannah Wright-Smith, Ph.D., an extension weed specialist at the University of Arkansas. “It is important to read the label on the product used and follow the instructions for seeding.”

Depending on the type of weed treatment you choose, you may need to wait for up to four weeks. You can ask your local garden center for information about when it’s safe to plant.

Step 5: Mow, Rake, and Till

Once the weeds—and grass, if applicable—turn brown, it’s time to mow as low as possible and then rake up as much of the weed debris as you can. Use a tilling fork to pull any extra weeds out and till the soil to prepare it for your amendments and seed.

Step 6: Dethatch and Aerate

Aerating your lawn can help break up thatch, the layer of decomposing organic matter between your lawn’s soil and grass blades. Thatch can be beneficial since it makes your lawn more resilient and provides insulation from extreme temperatures and changes in soil moisture. But if it gets over a 1/2 inch in thickness, it can cause root damage, including root rot.

Your raking and tilling from the previous step can help with dethatching, but you can also use a dethatching rake if the layer is excessive.

Aeration improves your grassroots access to air, nutrients, and water. Use a spike or core aerator to break up the soil. If you use a core aerator, be sure to make two to three passes in different directions. Allow the plugs of soil you remove to decompose on top of your soil layer rather than remove them.

Note that if it will be more than a few days before you plan to plant new grass, you may want to leave the old grass’s roots intact to prevent the soil from eroding. Wait to dethatch and aerate until you’re ready to seed.

Step 7: Test and Amend the Soil

While you’re waiting to plant new grass, consider getting the soil tested, either with a DIY test kit or by a professional. Your soil may have an issue that makes it less hospitable to grass and more hospitable to weeds. Mineral and nutrient content and pH (acidity) all affect the plants that grow in the soil.

If testing reveals a problem, you can often fix it by amending the soil with a treatment. Some common amendments include spreading organic compost to improve nutrient content or treating the soil with lime to decrease its pH. A professional lawn care service or local gardening professional can help you determine what your soil needs. When you’re ready to plant, apply the soil amendment to ready your soil for the grass seed or sod.

Step 8: Lay Down Seed or Sod

First, make sure you know which types of turfgrass are best for the climate where you live. Some grass species are available as both seed and sod. There are pros and cons to each.

Note also that traditional turfgrass isn’t your only option. Alternatives like a clover lawn grow faster and combat weeds better than turfgrass. There are benefits and drawbacks to these alternatives, as most don’t produce the same smooth, green appearance as traditional grass, but many also have lower maintenance requirements.

Laying Seed

First, you need to choose the right type of seed for your lawn. That will depend on the climate you live in—one that needs cool-season grasses, warm-season grasses, or a transition zone that allows more flexibility. After you determine which category you need, you can select specific grasses that may have attributes you’re after, like heat- or drought-resistance.

We recommend using two different types of spreaders. For the majority of the work, you should use a broadcast spreader because they distribute seed evenly, allowing for thorough coverage. But you’ll want to use a drop spreader around the edges of garden beds to make sure you don’t inadvertently drop seed into them.

• To prepare the soil, till down about 6–8 inches.
• Lay down approximately 1 inch of topsoil, then use a spreader to apply the seed to the soil. Always set the spreader to half the recommended drop rate and spread the seed in one direction, then make one or two more passes in different directions to make sure the coverage is even.
• Applying the right amount of seed is key. As a general rule of thumb, apply roughly 15 seeds per each square inch, then rake over the seed.
• Top the seed with top dressing no greater than 1/4 inch thick.
• If possible, use a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus. Due to concerns about water pollution, many states prohibit the use of phosphorus in lawn fertilizers, but some may allow phosphorus in fertilizers for establishing new lawns. If so, you’ll find fertilizers labeled “new lawn” or “starter fertilizer.”

Laying Sod

Not all grass varieties are available as sod, but you’ll get quicker results with this pre-grown turf. Follow these steps to lay sod correctly.

• Loosen the top 6–8 inches of soil and add 2–3 inches of topsoil. You may also choose to add organic compost or starter fertilizer.
• Level the lawn with a heavy rake, filling in low spots and raking down high spots. Water the leveled soil lightly.
• Lay the first roll of sod along the longest straight edge in your yard. Pat down any wrinkles or air pockets.
• Lay each row of sod butting snugly against the next with no overlap. Stagger the seams as you would with bricks, and cut the sod to fit around sprinkler heads and garden beds.
• Don’t allow foot traffic on the new sod for at least seven days.

Step 9: Water Your Lawn

Deep, infrequent watering can help establish your lawn by allowing it to grow deep roots, which can compete against weeds. Try to water your lawn about twice a week, in the morning, before the heat of the day sets in. Lawns typically need about 1.5 inches of water per week, but that could vary based on the climate you live in and the type of grass seed you choose. Sod may need more frequent watering at the beginning; be sure to ask when you purchase it.

“Focus on cultivating healthy, dense turf through proper irrigation management, fertility, and mowing that will outcompete weeds,” Wright-Smith recommends. “Most grasses need 1–1.25 inches of water per week, and while we can’t control the weather, we can make sure we aren’t over- or underwatering when we irrigate.”

Step 10: Maintain Your Lawn

Proper maintenance is critical if you want your newly established lawn to stay weed-free. Mow your lawn at either the highest or second-highest setting. Vigorous grass won’t be choked out by weeds. Fertilize your lawn as needed to help it thrive.

John E. Kaminski, Ph.D., professor of turfgrass science at The Pennsylvania State University, says, “Maintaining a healthy, dense lawn is the best long-term strategy for weed prevention. Mow at the proper height for your grass species to keep the turf strong and resilient.”

Watch the video below to see how This Old House landscape contractor Roger Cook resuscitates a dying lawn.

Should You Use Professional Lawn Care?

Once you’ve put in all that hard work, you’ll want to keep up with your lawn to keep the weeds from growing back. The prospect of regular lawn maintenance can be daunting, from fertilization to aeration to yet more weed control. Hiring a professional lawn care company like TruGreen can alleviate those concerns.

TruGreen offers five different annual plans for your lawn care needs, offering a range of treatments. Plans come with the TruGreen Healthy Lawn Guarantee, promising full-program customers that a TruGreen specialist will return to your home as many times necessary to resolve your issues.

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Expert Insights and Tips

Jon Trappe, Ph.D.

Turfgrass Extension Educator

University of Minnesota

See answers

Read bio

What are some of the most common causes of weeds?

Most weeds that encroach into lawns can be an indication of some underlying problem. We sometimes refer to these weeds as indicator weeds. In some cases, these problems and the weeds that they cause can be addressed through how the lawn is managed. Crabgrass for example, is often an indication of too low of a mowing height. Simply raising the mowing height to at least 3 inches will reduce the amount of crabgrass over time in a lawn. White clover and other legume species can be an indication of low nitrogen, so if you would like to have less white clover, applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers would be recommended.

Why is it important to remove weeds from your lawn?

We manage weeds in our lawns and landscapes because they compete for resources with the plants we are trying to grow for a specific function. These resources could be things like water, sunlight, nutrients, or space to grow and perform. If the main function of your lawn is aesthetics or curb appeal, maybe it is a higher priority for you to not see dandelion flowers. If you have a lawn for three kids and a golden retriever to safely play on, promoting more traffic-tolerant turfgrasses and discouraging weeds like knotweed or broadleaf plantain would be a higher priority.

Do you have any tips for homeowners looking for the proper herbicide to handle weeds?

Herbicides are going to be the most beneficial for weed control in two types of lawns: those that are just getting established and lawns that already have many creeping perennial broadleaf weeds. New lawns are the most susceptible to weed encroachment, and it is critical to get the lawn off to a good start to resist future weeds. In most cases, creeping perennial broadleaf weeds can be controlled using selective broadleaf herbicides that can be applied by do-it-yourselfers. We generally recommend that homeowners avoid using “weed and feed” type products. It is much more effective to selectively spot-treat anytime a herbicide is going to be used. Regardless of the strategy, the first step in managing lawn weeds is to correctly identify them and then check with your local extension webpage for the best strategies for their management.

What tips do you have for properly maintaining a lawn to stay weed-free?

A weed is defined as a plant out of place, and the best weed control is a dense and healthy turf. If the weeds do not have the space to encroach, they will be much less likely to do so. A dense and healthy turf is accomplished by following university recommendations for best management practices like proper mowing and fertilization. You might find that some of the “weeds” you have in your lawn are providing some other value (like food for pollinators), and it would be better to keep them.

Jon Trappe, Ph.D., is the turfgrass extension educator for the University of Minnesota. He has over 20 years of experience working in the turfgrass industry. Trappe is passionate about reducing the amount of maintenance inputs to lawns while maintaining the functionality of these areas.

Hannah Wright-Smith, Ph.D.

Extension Weed Specialist

University of Arkansas

See answers

Read bio

What are some of the most common causes of weeds?

Weeds need light to germinate and will often establish in thin turf or open areas. Thin turf can be caused by diseases, too much or too little water, low fertility, scalping, poor drainage, and compaction to name a few. Often, correcting the underlying issue such as low fertility or poor drainage can significantly reduce the number of weeds in your lawn.

Why is it important to remove weeds from your lawn?

There are many reasons a person may have for wanting to remove the weeds from their lawn. Many people dislike the look of weeds in their lawn and feel that a clean, well-kept lawn is a positive reflection of themselves and their home. Some weeds, such as lawn burweed, can cause injuries when stepped on and should be controlled to protect pets and children.

Do you have any tips for homeowners looking for the proper herbicide to handle weeds?

First, you should correctly identify the weed you want to control as many herbicides only work on certain weeds. For example, 2,4-D will only control broadleaf weeds and is not effective on grass weeds. After identifying the weed or weeds you wish to control, look at the herbicide product label to see if that weed is listed. There are also many online resources that will direct you to the best herbicide to use once you’ve identified the weed.

After weed treatment, how long do you recommend waiting before planting new seeds and why?

This depends on the herbicide used. Some herbicides have residual activity, meaning they can be active for an extended period of time, while others do not, and seeds can be planted immediately after application. It is important to read the label on the product used and follow the instructions for seeding.

What tips do you have for properly maintaining a lawn to stay weed-free?

Focus on cultivating healthy, dense turf through proper irrigation management, fertility, and mowing that will outcompete weeds. Most grasses need 1–1.25 inches of water per week, and while we can’t control the weather, we can make sure we aren’t over- or underwatering when we irrigate. It is best to irrigate in early morning and no more than twice per week. While fertility needs vary based on your soil and the turfgrass you have, as a general rule, most turf species need 1/2 pounds of N per growing month, which is often May through September for warm-season grasses like bermudagrass and September through November and March through May for cool-season grasses like tall fescue. Finally, mowing at the correct height for the turf species in your lawn, 1–2 inches for many species, allows the turf canopy to shade-out weeds and prevent their germination. Additionally, removing only 1/3 of the turf canopy when you mow prevents scalping. Scalping leaves open areas in which weeds can germinate and outcompete the surrounding turf that is recovering from the scalping.

Hannah Wright-Smith, Ph.D., is an extension weed specialist at the University of Arkansas, where she focuses on weed management in turfgrass, specialty crops, and forages.

Corey Ransom, Ph.D.

Associate Professor

Utah State University

See answers

Read bio

What are some of the most common causes of weeds?

Weeds often become problematic in lawns when turf uniformity and density are compromised by mismanagement or a lack of management. Although the requirements for healthy turf vary greatly by species and location, there are a few general guidelines you can follow to maximize turf health and minimize opportunities for weeds to encroach. Healthy turf typically requires adequate sunlight, irrigation, fertilization, and soil free of compaction to thrive. Homeowners can look to regional recommendations from land-grant universities or professional organizations to select turf types well adapted to their region and to find specific care guidelines to suit that turf type.

Why is it important to remove weeds from your lawn?

Lawns can play an important part in a home landscape for many reasons. They can add to the beauty and variety of a landscape, provide a great play surface for kids, and protect the soil from erosion. In hot arid environments, turf can provide some cooling around the home. If turfgrass uniformity and density are of utmost importance to the homeowner, weeds should be removed from the lawn as soon as they are identified. Weeds can easily detract from the visual quality of turf due to differences in leaf shape or growth habit. Weeds can also decrease enjoyment from walking or playing on a lawn, and some weeds can even be toxic to humans or animals. Weedy plant species are typically well-adapted to reproduce rapidly and expansively.

Are there specific characteristics of weeds to look out for that may cause more harm than others?

While any weed may detract from the beauty and uniformity of a lawn, some weeds can be more challenging to control than others, and some interfere with enjoyment of the turf. Broadleaf weeds are generally easier to control in lawns than grass weeds. Additionally, weeds that grow prostrate are able to persist in turf because they are less affected by frequent mowing. Other weeds that are problematic in lawns may include those with spines that can cause injury and those that have milky sap can gum up mowing equipment. Weeds with perennial life cycles that reproduce by seed or vegetative structures (rhizomes, stolons, etc.) can be especially challenging to control.

Do you have any tips for homeowners looking for the proper herbicide to handle weeds?

Homeowners should seek out local expertise for herbicide recommendations for weed control in lawns. This will ensure that the herbicides selected are effective for controlling the weeds that are most problematic for each specific situation. In addition, different grass species are used in lawns based on regional and climatic differences (i.e., bermudagrass in the Southern States versus Kentucky Bluegrass in the Northern U.S.), and some herbicides are labeled on one turf species but not the other and vice versa. Each herbicide label should be closely inspected before use to make sure it is appropriate to the setting where it will be used. University extension programs and turf companies often have fact-sheets that can help homeowners select the appropriate herbicides for their specific turf type and weed problem.

After weed treatment, how long do you recommend waiting before planting new seeds, and why?

Depending on if the lawn has been degraded or is being planted for the first time will determine the products that may be appropriate to control weeds. For lawns that have been neglected, the first step may be to evaluate the lawn’s potential to recover without reseeding by providing critical inputs like fertilizer, appropriate irrigation, aeration, etc. and observing if it begins to recover. It can be surprising how well some turf species can rebound when provided with critical inputs. For establishing new lawns or completely overseeding a lawn, it will be imperative to use herbicides that have little to no residual in the soil. The label of specific products will tell you how long to wait before trying to plant specific plant species. If you know you are going to plant a new lawn or overseed an existing one, refrain from using preemergence herbicides as they will not only prevent weeds from germinating but will prevent germination of the seeded grasses. If establishing sod, make sure the sod is weed-free to prevent bringing a new weed problem to your yard.

What tips do you have for properly maintaining a lawn to stay weed-free?

Once turfgrass is successfully established, proper maintenance will allow it to flourish and compete against weeds. Scouting your lawn often to look for new infestations and managing weeds when they first appear can reduce overall management expenses. When weed numbers are small, they may be successfully managed by removing them by hand, while once the population grows, practical management may require the use of a herbicide. The old adage is true: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!” —Benjamin Franklin

Corey Ransom, Ph.D., is associate professor of weed science at Utah State University. He teaches several courses in weed management and control.

John E. Kaminski, Ph.D.

Professor

The Pennsylvania State University

See answers

Read bio

What are some of the most common causes of weeds?

Weeds are often an indicator of underlying turfgrass management issues. Common causes include mowing too short, which weakens the grass and opens space for weeds to establish, and inconsistent or improper watering, which stresses the turf. Poor soil conditions, such as compaction, low fertility, or pH imbalances, also contribute to weed problems. Additionally, neglecting regular lawn maintenance, such as fertilization or aeration, creates opportunities for weeds to outcompete turfgrass.

Why is it important to remove weeds from your lawn?

Weeds compete directly with turfgrass for essential resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients. Left unchecked, they can weaken or displace desirable grass species, resulting in a less dense lawn that’s more prone to erosion, pests, and diseases. Some weeds, such as certain broadleaf species, can also become invasive and difficult to control over time.

Are there specific characteristics of weeds to look out for that may cause more harm than others?

Yes, certain weeds can be more problematic based on their growth habits and persistence. For example, grassy weeds like crabgrass can quickly take over thin or stressed areas during warm seasons, while perennial broadleaf weeds like dandelions and clover can be difficult to eradicate without proper treatment. Grass-like weeds such as nutsedge are also particularly aggressive due to their ability to thrive in poorly drained soils. Homeowners should look out for perennial weeds that return year after year and weeds that spread through rhizomes or stolons, as these are harder to control.

Do you have any tips for homeowners looking for the proper herbicide to handle weeds?

The first step is accurate weed identification. Broadleaf weeds require a selective broadleaf herbicide, while grassy weeds need a post-emergent herbicide designed for grasses. Pre-emergent herbicides can also be highly effective for preventing annual grassy weeds like crabgrass. Always read and follow the product label carefully to ensure proper application and safety. If unsure, consult a local extension service or lawn care professional for recommendations tailored to your region.

After weed treatment, how long do you recommend waiting before planting new seeds, and why?

The waiting period depends on the herbicide used. For most post-emergent herbicides, waiting at least two to three weeks before seeding is advisable, as the herbicide can affect seed germination and establishment. Pre-emergent herbicides, which are designed to prevent seed germination, typically require waiting several months. Always check the label for specific guidance to avoid wasting seed or harming your lawn.

What tips do you have for properly maintaining a lawn to stay weed-free?

Maintaining a healthy, dense lawn is the best long-term strategy for weed prevention. Mow at the proper height for your grass species to keep the turf strong and resilient. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations to ensure adequate nutrient availability, and water deeply but infrequently to promote deep root growth. Aerate compacted soils to improve drainage and oxygen flow, and overseed thin areas to maintain a dense turf canopy. Regular maintenance discourages weeds by leaving no room for them to establish.

John E. Kaminski, Ph.D., is a professor of turfgrass science at The Pennsylvania State University. John earned his B.S. in turfgrass science from The Pennsylvania State University in 1998. He then went back to his home state, where he earned his M.S. (2001) and Ph.D. (2004) from the University of Maryland. Kaminski is the director of the two-year turf program at Penn State and conducts research on the chemical and cultural management strategies for turfgrass diseases and weeds.

Albert Adjesiwor, Ph.D.

Assistant Professor & Extension Specialist

University of Idaho

See answers

Read bio

What are some of the most common causes of weeds?

The common causes of weeds include but are not limited to: Poor mowing: Mowing too short opens up the canopy for weeds to come up. Most weed seeds are light-sensitive, meaning that once they are exposed to direct sunlight, they get a cue that there’s not much competition and it’s a good time to come up. Mowing too late: If you let your dandelion go to seed before you mow the lawn, you will spread the seeds all over the lawn and have a problem on your hand. Bad neighbors: Neighbors who mow their lawn late or rarely mow/weed around their property will likely spread weeds to your lawn, even if you do everything right.

Why is it important to remove weeds from your lawn?

Not all weeds are pretty in your lawn. Weed control makes the lawn clean and neat. Weeds produce seeds and creeping roots (rhizomes and stolons) that enable them to multiply and spread. If you don’t control the weeds, they are likely to take over the lawn.

Are there specific characteristics of weeds to look out for that may cause more harm than others?

Know the enemy! Not all weeds are created equal. Controlling grassy weeds in a grass lawn is very difficult. Perennial weeds like field bindweed and Canada thistle will produce roots that have several buds (growing points). When these roots are cut into pieces, any piece with a bud on it can regenerate into a new plant. It is important to keep this in mind when dealing with weeds like these.

Do you have any tips for homeowners looking for the proper herbicide to handle weeds?

Unfortunately, most homeowner products have very confusing trade names. My recommendation for homeowners is to take a photo of the active ingredient part of the product label and send it to their county extension or weed control specialist. This will enable the experts to let you know if the product would provide good control of the weed(s).

After weed treatment, how long do you recommend waiting before planting new seeds, and why?

This depends on the type of product applied. Some homeowner products have residual herbicides in them, meaning they kill weed seeds that are about to germinate. These products will often be designated to provide “extended control.” You will have to wait longer after applying such products before you can plant any seed. When in doubt, take a photo of the active ingredient part of the product label and send it to your county extension or weed control specialist, and they will let you know when it might be safe to plant seeds.

Albert is a weed scientist and extension specialist studying and disseminating information on best weed management practices in agronomic crops.

FAQ About How To Restore a Lawn Full of Weeds

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