High-traffic areas take a lot of abuse. When it’s a staircase, the traffic is condensed to an even smaller area. When that traffic is caused by two big dogs, the abuse can be intense. When a homeowner grew tired of his dogs gouging and scratching his steps, it was time for an upgrade. Mauro Henrique helped prep and paint the steps and handrails so they could withstand years of traffic.
How to Paint Stair Treads
- Start sanding the handrail’s top, bottom, and sides. This includes the newel post and any balusters. Start with 120 grit first and then move to 220 grit. This will improve the primer’s adhesion and promote a longer-lasting finish.
- “Break” the edges of the stair treads by lightly sanding them to soften any hard edges on the top, bottom, and backs of the exposed stair tread ends.
- With a portable power sander (a rectangular orbital sander is best), and the stop of fronts of the stair treads with 120 grit sandpaper before switching to 220 grit and sanding again.
- Use the wet/dry vacuum and brush attachment to remove all of the sanding dust from the stairs and handrails.
- Place a drop cloth down along the steps and prime the spindles, handrail, and newel post. Start on top and work your way down, maintaining a wet edge for smooth, even brush strokes.
- Remove the drop cloth and prime the stairs. Use the brush to apply primer to the corners and the paint roller to paint the field of the tread.
- Lightly sand the handrail and the stair treads. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and then move to 220-grit sandpaper. Vacuum the sanding dust again.
- Apply paint to the handrails, newel posts, and balusters with the paintbrush. Again, maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
- Apply a thick coat of paint to the stair treads. Use the paintbrush to control the amount of paint being applied and paint side-to-side for an even application.
- Let the first coat cure for 24 hours before lightly sanding with 220-grit sandpaper, vacuuming, and applying a final coat of paint. Note: If the paint hasn’t cured but you need to use the stairs once they’re dry to the touch, put on a pair of clean socks to minimize friction.
Resources
The stair treads and handrails worked on were unfinished wood. The stair treads had a lot of scratches and marks, so Mauro used a 120-grit sandpaper on a power sander connected to a HEPA vacuum. 220–320 grit sandpaper was used all over afterwards. The same grit sandpaper was also used on the handrails. N95 masks and safety glasses were worn while sanding. And before every coat of primer and paint, the area should be lightly sanded with 220 to 320 grit sandpaper and vacuumed.
Drop cloths were used to protect the floor and stair treads when they were not being worked on. Painter’s tape can be used to protect the balusters, risers, and skirtboards.
Mauro used a quart of an oil-based primer for both the treads and handrail. Oil-based primers are ideal for untreated wood.
For the handrail and post, Mauro used a semi-gloss white paint that is good for high-traffic areas. Paints made for trim, cabinets, and doors work well for something like a handrail that will be touched a lot. Glossier finishes are easier to clean and are more durable than flat finishes.
For the stair treads, Mauro used a high gloss white floor interior and exterior paint. A floor paint made for interior and exterior uses is ideal for stairs. Especially for the stairs Mauro worked on that are right next to the front door and in a home with two large dogs that will be constantly using the stairs after being outside.
Materials
- Sandpaper (120 and 220 grit)
- Drop cloth
- Painter’s tape
- Oil-based primer
- Railing paint (semi-gloss)
- Tread paint (high-gloss)
