How to Replace a Wall Tile

Cracked and damaged wall tiles are never good, but with the right tools and techniques, you can seamlessly remove and replace them. Watch This Old House tile contractor Joe Ferrante demonstrate how to replace a wall tile above a bathroom sink.

Selecting the Right Replacement Tile

You may have leftover tile from when you installed them originally. If so, great. But if you don’t, you’ll need to find a match. When you’re shopping for replacement tile, try to find a type that matches the old one’s size, color, shape, and pattern. Even slight differences can make the area stand out like a sore thumb. 

To protect your wall’s integrity, you should also purchase a replacement tile that’s made from the same material as your existing ones. Some materials, like porcelain and vinyl, perform better around moisture.

Take a sample of the broken tile to the store for comparison, or ask an associate about the tile’s specific name or model number.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need to Replace Wall Tile

Besides the replacement tile, you’ll need the following tools and materials for the job:

• Utility knife
• Cold chisel (1/2-inch)
• Hammer
• Tile nippers
• Concrete rub stone
• Pointed trowel
• Rubber grout float
• Sponge
• Bucket
• Safety glasses
• Replacement tile
• Thinset mortar
• Latex additive
• Tile grout
• Canvas drop cloth

Step-by-Step Instructions for Replacing a Damaged Tile

Once you’ve gathered all your materials and tools, you’re ready to proceed. Always remember to take safety precautions. Working with tiles and tools can be dangerous. Prioritize safety by following these tips:

• Cover the surrounding area with a canvas drop cloth to protect it from dust and debris.
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from debris.
• Use work gloves so you don’t get cut on sharp tile edges.
• Keep your work area well-ventilated and wear a dust mask. Working with tile can release harmful silica dust into the air.

Step 1: Removing the Damaged Tile

First, you need to carefully remove the damaged tile without harming the surrounding ones. This requires a little patience and a gentle hand so you don’t crack adjacent tiles or compromise the substrate.

Start by carefully scoring the grout joints around the cracked tile with a utility knife. This step helps minimize the risk of chipping adjacent tiles during removal.

After scoring the grout, loosen the damaged tile with a cold chisel and hammer. Apply gentle, controlled taps so you don’t damage the surrounding tiles or substrate. Once the tile is loose, carefully remove it from the wall.

Next, clean the substrate with a pointed trowel, scraping away any remaining adhesive or debris. The new tile will adhere better to a clean surface.

Step 2: Preparing the New Tile

Before installing the replacement tile, you may need to make a few adjustments for a perfect fit. 

First, check the tile’s fit in the empty space without mortar. That way, you’ll know what modifications you may need to make before applying adhesive. It’s always easier to adjust the tile at this stage than once it’s partially set.

Some tiles use spacer lugs around the edges, like the one Ferrante installed in the video above. You’ll need to remove them with tile nippers in order to get a flush fit with the surrounding tiles.  

Finally, once you’ve removed any spacer lugs, use a carborundum rub stone to smooth the tile’s edges. This both makes the tile look better and saves you from cuts during installation and grouting.

Step 3: Installing the New Tile

With the preparation complete, it’s time to install the new tile. Ferrante mixes thin-set mortar with a hint of latex additive for the job. “This will set up faster, and it bonds better,” he says.

Start by using a pointed trowel to apply a thin layer of mortar to the wall where the new tire will go. Cover the area entirely for proper adhesion. Applying the mortar unevenly can make your new tile appear out of place on the wall.

Next, Ferrante spreads a layer of mortar behind the tile. This technique, which is called back-buttering, creates a stronger bond between the tile and the wall. While it’s generally best to apply the mortar evenly, he leaves the mortar slightly thicker in the middle of the tile.

Press the back-buttered tile firmly into place so that it’s level with its surroundings. Use gentle pressure to set the tile, trying not to disturb the other tiles. Precision is key here, so work slowly to ensure the tile is flush and well-aligned.

Step 4: Grouting the New Tile

The thin-set takes about 30 minutes to cure. Once it sets, you can proceed to grout the new tile. For a seamless experience, choose a grout color that matches your existing wall and prepare it according to the instructions. 

Force the grout into the joints between the tiles with a rubber float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle and work diagonally across the joints so coverage is uniform. For hard-to-reach areas like windowsills, Ferrante recommends using your finger to rub the grout in.

Wait about 10 minutes after applying the grout, then use a damp sponge to clean excess off from the surface of the tile. Don’t remove too much grout from the joints during this process.

Allow the grout to set overnight. The next day, buff out any remaining haze with a clean, dry sponge.

Repairing Small Cracks and Chips in Tile

If the tile only has a small crack or chip, you may be able to save it without the need for a replacement. These are a few different repair options you can use to help restore the tile’s appearance.

• Tile repair kit: Tile repair kits typically include fillers that match the color of the broken tile. Follow the instructions in the kit to mix the filler and apply it to the crack or chip.
• Epoxy resin: Epoxy resin blended to match your tile’s color can work to patch slightly larger cracks. Apply the resin to the crack and smooth it out with a small brush or applicator tool.
• Tile sealant: Once you’ve used a repair kit or epoxy, follow up with a tile sealant to protect the repair from moisture and wear.